Siargao: Embracing Transformation as the Philippines' Surf Capital

Dec 20, 2024 By Victoria Gonzalez

Siargao, renowned as the "surf capital of the Philippines," earned its global acclaim in 1980 when surf photographer Tony Arruza and surfer Steve Jones embarked on a journey to find the "perfect wave" and stumbled upon this island paradise. Their discovery sparked a surge of interest among surfing enthusiasts, leading them to the coastal town of General Luna, the gateway to Siargao's many attractions.


In subsequent years, American surfer and international fugitive Mike Boyum is believed to have uncovered the island's now-iconic Cloud 9 reef break, while surfing photographer John Callahan captured legendary surfers like Kevin Davidson, Evan Slater, and Taylor Knox conquering the mighty waves. Today, Siargao's allure—a fusion of natural splendor, community spirit, and adventure—continues to draw visitors to the southeastern Philippines, with a dramatic increase in tourism from approximately 13,600 international arrivals in 2012 to nearly 54,000 in 2023. Domestic tourism has also skyrocketed, leaping from nearly 124,000 visitors in 2018 to over 476,000 in 2023, an astonishing rise for an island with a population of around 150,000.


Upcoming developments include a cruise terminal, airport expansions, and larger resort projects. "It's wonderful to see Siargao gain recognition, but preserving the island's natural beauty and close-knit community is essential," says Wemar Bonono, a professional surfer and co-founder of several local businesses and a charity. "We've witnessed the consequences in other island destinations. As long as we prioritize sustainability, eco-friendly initiatives, and responsible tourism, Siargao can flourish without losing its charm."


Bonono is part of a growing movement of residents dedicated to safeguarding Siargao's essence while inviting like-minded travelers to experience its beauty through sustainable stays, voluntourism, and immersive cultural experiences. Here are some of the dedicated individuals working to preserve the island's magic.


Ian Sermonia and Mike Medina, high school friends from Manila, set out in 2013 to establish a surf resort that merged their passion for hospitality and surfing. "After searching all over the Philippines for the perfect location for Harana, we fell in love with Siargao," Sermonia tells. "The island welcomed us with open arms." When Harana Surf Resort opened in 2015, Sermonia and Medina became the first residents of Manila to open a surf resort on the island.


However, as newcomers from the city, they made an effort to integrate into the local community. "Most of the initial resorts were owned by foreigners who revered the local culture and simply wanted to live the island lifestyle—surfing, enjoying nature, and reveling in the waves," says 44-year-old Sermonia. The strong foundation of slow living and sustainability in the island's small but burgeoning hospitality industry resonated with the duo, offering a stark contrast to the cautionary tales from other well-known local destinations.


"Growing up, Boracay was one of our favorite places to spend holidays and summer breaks," he recalls. "And then we witnessed it take a wrong turn. We were very mindful of that." Sermonia and Medina sought advice from STOKE Certified, a sustainability certification organization specializing in surf and ski tourism. "In addition to protecting the environment, they advised us to promote the local culture and ensure that the locals felt they were part of Siargao's growth," he says.


For instance, the resort employs locals, offers fair wages, provides discounts to guests who volunteer on the island, champions environmental protection, and partners with local charities and non-profits. They also ensure the community feels included at their famous Saturday beach parties, creating a social space where residents and travelers mingle. "That's what keeps the vibe cool," Sermonia says. "It's not just tourists—it's everyone together."


Growing up in Siargao, Bonono spent his days on a stretch of white sand known as Big Wish Beach in Pacifico, a tranquil village about an hour's drive from General Luna. Curious but without proper equipment, 9-year-old Bonono made do with plywood until he could borrow a surfboard from friends. He much preferred surfing to school, where he dropped out at age 10 after negative experiences. "I had a tough time in school, which I was embarrassed about," he says, adding that he learned to read when he was 16. "But actually, it's what inspired me to start The Sun Crew." Founded in 2017, The Sun Crew is a local charity that teaches children to surf, provided they attend school and participate in weekend beach clean-ups.


Bonono and an Australian expat friend, Hannah Bowyer, initiated the program after noticing children skipping school to watch tourists surf. "I realized we could use surfing as an incentive to get them back in school," he says. What began as a small initiative has grown to support over 1,000 children from nearby villages, expanding to include summer school, literacy programs, math tutoring, plastic-collection initiatives, and young women's leadership development.


"They are the island's future, so we want to help them combine their interest in surfing with education and instill environmental values, too," he shares. The Sun Crew also welcomes travelers who want to volunteer while they're in Siargao, Bonono adds. "The island has this incredible spirit where the locals and visitors come together, sharing a deep respect for the waves, nature, and each other," he says. "This sense of belonging really sets Siargao apart—the strong surfing culture and this shared passion to protect this paradise."


Originally from Manila, Kara Rosas arrived in Siargao in 2019 for a three-month volunteer stint at Bayatakan Farm Experience, a hands-on farming and cultural immersion initiative. While volunteering, she met the owner, Analyn Dulpina, who had partnered with a local snackbar in Burgos, one of the northernmost towns on the island. "The snackbar is a social enterprise—it's a community space where people can gather over a snack, away from the main tourism area," says Rosas, 27, who helped formalize the projects into an organization called Lokal Lab.


"While running the snackbar, Mark (Pintucan) and Iris (Aroa) wanted to ensure that at least 80% of what they served actually came from the island. That's when we found out that there was a problem with food security in the sense that 97% of the island's produce was imported, even though there are many farms here." To address the issue, they collaborated with Dulpina to launch a slow-food market in General Luna where buyers, like restaurants and hotels, could connect with local producers.


By providing an economic ecosystem for local produce, Rosas says, Lokal Lab hopes to sustain traditional livelihoods like weaving and farming. Otherwise, she worries that rapid tourism development will cause locals to sell their land or be forced to leave due to rising prices. "They're the food producers and the backbone of tourism—and we don't want them to be marginalized from development," Rosas adds. "That's what happened in Bali … When visiting or moving to the island, we need to be careful not to gentrify it and be mindful about the island's existing culture."


On a mission to make Siargao a self-sustaining island, Lokal Lab also trains farmers in regenerative techniques, supports local artisans, and hosts a youth-led storytelling initiative. Travelers can experience Lokal Lab's work at The Hub, a social enterprise in General Luna. Set inside a renovated Filipino house, the community space and cafe showcases farm-to-table cuisine alongside immersive events and workshops.


It's also the meeting point for Lokal Experience tours, which include hands-on farming experiences, cooking, and traditional weaving experiences. The organization's latest project, Tropical Academy, is a vocational school teaching regenerative farming, with plans to add carpentry, culinary, and hospitality skills. "The idea is to empower locals so they don't have to leave their communities for jobs," she says. "We want them to be equipped with the knowledge and skills to start their own businesses and take control of their own livelihoods."


Preserving nature and tackling plastic wasteSiargao is home to the Philippines' largest mangrove stand, spanning over 4,800 hectares and providing sanctuary to rare and endangered species such as crocodiles, sea turtles, and the Philippine cockatoo. While the island and its surrounding waters have been designated a protected area since 1996, enforcement remains a challenge. "When I visit the main island, I've noticed some changes—especially issues with waste management and plastic pollution," Lady Carmel Litang tells Travel.


"The more tourists that arrive on the island, the more plastic waste comes." The 25-year-old joined the nonprofit SEA Movement, which stands for Siargao Environmental Awareness, in 2022. The organization aims to inspire collective action and environmental stewardship through beach cleanups, advocating for plastic-free alternatives, and educating locals and tourists on marine conservation.


Born and raised on Halian Island, off the west coast of Siargao, Litang also leads Halian SEAwikan, a turtle-nesting conservation program, and Saturday beach clean-ups with local island children. She also collaborates with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) Provincial Environment and Natural Resources Office of Surigao Del Norte to conduct turtle conservation workshops in Halian and parts of Siargao. Litang says the government and many other organizations are working on waste-management solutions, but travelers must also be mindful of their choices.


"There are some irresponsible tourists we can't control," she adds. "But we are just hoping that the travelers who come here will be responsible and eco-conscious—that they travel to support the local communities." Despite the challenges of rapid tourism development, there's hope among Siargao's residents. After the devastation of Typhoon Rai, known in the Philippines as Super Typhoon Odette, in December 2021, donations have poured into the region, providing a much-needed boost for the island's restoration. Moreover, a "Comprehensive Tourism Master Plan" was developed back in 2017 to provide a roadmap for balanced growth, but it hasn't been implemented yet.


"It's really unfortunate—it would have tackled key issues like rising tourism, power shortages, waste management, and disaster resilience," Felino A. Palafox, Jr., the award-winning Filipino architect whose namesake firm is behind the plan, tells Travel. "The government needs to implement the plan quickly—every new structure in Siargao should go above and beyond the building code to withstand super typhoons, earthquakes, and tsunamis." Travel has reached out to the DENR for comment but did not receive a reply prior to publishing. Sermonia agrees that the master plan would push Siargao in a positive direction. "The community is strong, but leadership must prioritize sustainable practices," he says.


"Politicians will ultimately decide where Siargao goes." For now, Sermonia says, Siargao is at a tipping point. "Hundred-room resorts aren't necessarily bad if they're eco-friendly and locals feel like they're part of the growth," he notes. "At the end of the day, I truly believe that alongside the warmth of the locals, it's the surf culture and its deep respect for the environment and nature that sets the island apart. If politicians continue valuing and protecting this culture, Siargao will be in a good place." Bonono echoes this sentiment.


"The community is making great strides—there's a genuine investment in preserving the island's beauty while ensuring growth benefits everyone," he says. "It's inspiring to see some of the work being done to help the island evolve from not just a surfing paradise but also a model for a sustainable, inclusive community, and we look forward to seeing more people join this mission."



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